Tenderloin, San Francisco
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San Francisco's Tenderloin is an informal neighborhood name for a parts of the Downtown/Tenderloin district 8a, Van Ness/Civic Center district 8f and South of Market district 9f. It is a high density urban area bounded on the North by Sutter Street, on the East by Taylor and 6th Streets, on the South by Mission Street and on the West by Larkin and 9th Streets.
The Tenderloin roughly lies west of Union Square, south of Nob Hill, east of Western Addition and Van Ness corridor and north of SoMa ("South of Market").
The southern extension of the Tenderloin south of Market Street to a section of Mission Street is known locally as "Skid Row". The northern part of district 8a is called a variety of desperate psuedonyms including "Lower Nob Hill", "The Tendernob" or, humorously, "Tenderloin Heights". The eastern extent where it meets Union Square is known as the Theater District. Part of the western extent of the Tenderloin, Larkin and Hyde Streets between Turk and O'Farrell, was officially named "Little Saigon" by Mayor Gavin Newsom shortly after his election in 2004.
Nestled between successful commercial areas and high priced residential areas, the neighborhood has historically resisted gentrification, maintaining a seedy character and reputation for crime in the same manner as New York City's Hell's Kitchen. Abandoned architectual landmarks, such as the old Hibernia Bank, are also located here.
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History
One of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, it became notorious for its concentration of illegal bars, or "speakeasies" during Prohibition.
The neighborhood earned its name from the words of a local police captain, who was overheard saying that when he was assigned to another part of town, he could only afford to eat chuck steak on the salary he was earning, but after he was transferred to this neighborhood he was making so much money on the side soliciting bribes that now he could eat tenderloin instead. Another version says that the officers that worked in the Tenderloin received a "hazard pay" bonus for working in such a violent area, and that is how they were able to afford the good cut of meat.
Prior to the emergence of the Castro as a major gay village, the Polk Gulch at the western side of the Tenderloin was one of the city's first gay neighborhoods. Many gay bars and clubs still exist today on Polk Street.
Both the movies and book The Maltese Falcon were based in San Francisco's Tenderloin, although the boundary was defined differently then than it is today. Some locations such as Sam Spade's apartment and John's Grill no longer lie in today's Tenderloin, because local economics and real estate have changed the character and labeling of areas over time.
Community
The Tenderloin is an ethnically diverse community, consisting of middle class young white people, African American residents, and Mexican, Vietnamese and Pakistani families.
With few exceptions, housing is rented in dense 4-6 story Edwardian apartment buildings. The Hamilton, on O'Farrell Street, is a 20 story former hotel which has condominiumized and is owner occupied.
Gentrification accelerated somewhat during the Dot-com boom of 1999-2001 in the northern blocks ranging from O'Farrell Street to Sutter Street.
Parks
A park at the corner of Ellis and Jones Streets is unused by children and is commonly occupied by drug addicts or intoxicated people during the daytime.
A gated playground at the corner of O'Farrell and Larkin Streets is commonly occupied by parents and their yound children. The playground is well maintained and lies next to a public restroom. It is across the street from a strip club.
Restaurants
"Original Joe's" at Taylor and Turk is the neighborhood's Italian American style steak house.
A variety of vietnamese restaurants and coffee shops line Larkin Street in Little Saigon. The most well known restaurant is "VietNam II" at the corner of Larkin and Ellis. It should be noted that there is a section on the menu for pigeon dishes.
"Dong Baek" is a Korean restaurant at 631 O'Farrell.
Numerous Indian and Pakistani restaurants line Jones Street between Geary and Eddy. The best northern Indian food in town is "Shalimar", on Jones between O'Farrell and Geary Streets.
Many Thai restaurants can be found in the neighborhood, including "Lalita Thai" on Leavenworth and McAllister, and "OSHA Noodle" on Leavenworth and Geary.
An Asian vegetarian restaurant "Golden Era" can be found on O'Farrell Street near Jones Street.
Night Life
Bars
Many Tenderloin bars have withstood the test of time with their 1930's character.
- The Nite Cap at Hyde and O'Farrell is a dive bar with lively character and a young clientele in the evening.
- The Brown Jug at Hyde and Ellis has a steady clientele and was voted the city's best dive bar in a vote conducted by a local tabloid weekly.
- The Owl Tree at Sutter and Taylor is an ancient dark English style tavern with an owl theme and a resident terrier.
- Edinburgh Castle on Geary at Polk is a Scottish themed pub with a variety of beers.
- Ha Ra is a small quiet bar with a boxing theme. There are posters of Rocky Marciano and other old time boxers on the walls.
There are also numerous Korean bars in the neighborhood.
Music
- The Great American Music Hall is located on O'Farrell Street near Larkin Street. It is a medium to small capacity theater that serves popular and rock music concerts.
- The Warfield on Market Street is a large capacity theater that serves popular music concerts.
Stage
Some of the city's more prestigious theaters are located in the Tenderloin.
- The Orpheum Theater on Hyde and Market Streets.
- The Golden Gate Theater is found at Taylor and Market Streets.
Other stage theaters lie in the San Francisco Theater District.
Strip Clubs
There are many strip clubs in the Tenderloin.
The Mitchell Brothers' O'Farrell Street Theater is the most famous, or infamous. Other strip clubs are clustered either nearby, on Market Street, or in the Theater District.
Crime
Prostitution is commonly seen on the streets. Transgendered streetwalkers center on the area around Post and Polk streets near the transgender bar, Divas.
Dealing of illicit drugs occurs on the streets and petty crime by drug addicts is common, especially theft from parked vehicles. Gun violence is rare but has been known to occur.
External links
- Tenderloin.net (http://www.tenderloin.net) - neighborhood photo essays, mostly. Caution - some photos are a bit graphic but the site portrays an accurate image of this area.
- San Francisco Neighborhood Guide (http://www.sfgate.com/traveler/guide/sf/neighborhoods/tenderloin.shtml) Tenderloin entry on sfgate.com.
- The Tenderloin: San Francisco's Fountainhead (http://www.newcolonist.com/tenderloin.html) - article arguing for the importance of working class neighborhoods to a city's vitality.
- Let's Go Guide - San Francisco, The Tenderloin (http://www.letsgo.com/SF/01-DiscoverSF-79)
- The Tendernob - 21st Century San Francisco Enclave for the Nouveau Poor (http://involution.org/tendernob.html)