Kurt Diemberger
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Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive before he fell through a cornice on Chogolisa.
In 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2. Shortly after starting their descent, Julie fell -- dragging Diemberger with her. Fortunately, they somehow stopped from going over the edge and spent the night above 8,000 metres. They managed to reach Camp IV the next day where they were forced to share a tent with other climbers after their tent had collapsed from hurricane force winds. Unfortunately, Julie died later that night, possibly from HACE.
Diemberger is still active in the mountaineering world and works on film projects with his daughter.
Books
Diemberger has written the following books:
- The Endless Knot : K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny, 1991. Translated into English by Audrey Salkeld. ISBN 0898863007
- Summits and secrets, 1991. Translated into English by Hugh Merrick. ISBN 0898863074
- Spirits of the Air, 1994 ISBN 0898864089
- K2 : Challenging the Sky, 1997 ISBN 0898865182
- The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus, 1999 ISBN 1898573263
- K2. Traum und Schicksal, 2001 (German) ISBN 3765437557
See also: eight-thousander