Frisbee throws
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From the perspective of physics, two things must be done in order to throw a Frisbee (flying disc, or simply disc):
- Spin must be imparted to the disc, to stabilize it and to create lift
- The center of mass must be given some amount of velocity
Without spin, a disc will wobble and fall. Without velocity, the disc will not go anywhere. Using these two guidelines, any number of throws are possible. Regardless of delivery, however, if the disc makes it from the thrower to the receiver, then the throw was successful.
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Useful tips
- Spin is critical to keep a Frisbee flying. Power is a secondary concern. A disc thrown level with a lot of spin and a little bit of power will fly very far, albeit slowly. Many beginners make the mistake of overpowering their throws in order to make them go farther - this often results in poorly aimed throws or throws which angle quickly into the ground.
- Increasing the pitch at which the disc is thrown is also a common mistake. Distance is achieved through stability and power, not pitch. A pitch of around 10-15 degrees will give the disc's flight path some height and may aid in distance. However, a disc thrown at a 45-degree pitch will likely land behind the thrower! (For exceptions, see Upside-Down throws, below.)
- Concentrate first on learning to throw a good, level pass. It's more important to be able to throw level than to throw hard or far, and it's easier to catch. Once you've mastered a level throw, experiment with adding 'bend' or curve to your throws.
- As you throw the disc, step sideways or forward with the foot on the same side as your throwing arm. This feels counterintuitive to many people, since in most ball sports one steps forward with the foot opposite the throwing arm. (Picture a baseball pitcher, who steps forward with his left foot while throwing with his right arm.) This same-side stepping motion is critical in both Ultimate and Disc golf, since it allows you to throw around obstructions even though the pivot foot may not be moved.
How to
Right-side up
Right-side up throws are all similar in that they react the same way to the tilt of the disc when it is released. A Frisbee thrown right-side up will accelerate in the direction of the low end of the Frisbee. A Frisbee tilted leading-edge up will lose speed at the end of the throw and make a gentle landing; if tilted sideways (known in aeronautics terms as roll), it can curve around objects.
There is a language for describing throws that curve. Both descriptions are relative to the direction the person is facing and intends to throw. This axis is marked in red in the picture.
- Inside-out throws (green paths) occur when the thrower releases the disc in such a way that it initially comes towards the throwing axis (inside-). However, the disc is tilted with the side closest to the body highest, which causes the disc to curve away from the thrower (-out).
- Outside-in throws (blue paths, sometimes also called a bender) follow the opposite path. The thrower releases the disc moving away from the throwing axis (outside-), but with the side of the disc closest to the body lowest. This tilt causes the disc to bend back towards the thrower (-in).
Backhand
This is probably the most commonly learned throw, and also one of the most powerful. There is a long windup for the throw, both in terms of path length and time.
- Grip: Fingers are curled under the disc's rim, and the thumb is placed on top of the Frisbee to hold it in place. The index finger may either be on the edge of the Frisbee (to help aim), or four fingers may be tucked underneath the rim (to aid power).
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- Throw: The thrower draws their arm across their body to build velocity for the Frisbee. During this movement, the arm straightens out. As the arm becomes straight, the wrist is flicked, to impart spin. After release, the arm usually points towards the target.
Variations
The backhand is an excellent general-purpose throw. Several modifications have been created; some are listed here.
- The High Release: Used to get around an object (or a person), the High Release is thrown above the thrower's shoulder, mostly powered by the flick of the wrist instead of the arm and shoulder.
- The Air Bounce: By putting downward pressure on the trailing edge (back side) of the disc as it is released, this throw will sail a short distance at a low height, then "bounce" up into the air. This is done by pressing down with the thumb, which is on the trailing edge at the point of release. Skilled throwers can execute this throw such that the disc travels under a parked car; however, if an inexperienced thrower tries to acquire this throw, they will frequently lose the ability to throw a normal, straight backhand.
- The Backhand Push (Biscuit): This little-known version of the backhand is similar to a Push Pass (see Forehand variations, below) in that little spin is imparted onto the throw, making it hard to execute and of limited utility. The disc is gripped against the palm, with four fingers on top of the disc and the thumb underneath for stability. Using a backhand throwing motion, spin is imparted by snapping the wrist forwards as the disc is released.
Forehand
This throw (also known as the flick or the two-finger) is a staple of the Frisbee fan's repertoire, as well as the bread-and-butter throw of Ultimate Frisbee players. Focused in the wrist, this throw takes little time to execute.
- Grip: The index finger is extended and laid against the bottom of the disc to provide stability for the throw, the middle finger is pressed against the rim of the disc, and the edge of the disc is tucked under the thumb. The Frisbee is cocked back at the wrist, and the arm is extended out from the body.
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- Throw: A flick of the wrist imparts spin off the middle finger as well as some forward velocity. Some snap of the lower arm can provide additional power. After release, your index finger should point to your target.
Note that 90% of this throw is below the elbow, and most of that at the wrist. A common mistake is to attempt to use the upper arm and shoulder to add power to the throw. Usually, this results in little or no spin being imparted on the disc, which causes it to fall quickly. It's also common for the flick of the wrist to pull the outside edge of the Frisbee up; to compensate, hold the disc somewhat loosely, so that the outer edge hangs down slightly. Experiment with the cocking and flicking motions to determine how best to produce a level throw.
As you learn how to throw a flick, it may help to tuck your elbow in towards your body; this is a bad habit to get into if you play Ultimate, but may assist with preventing you from using too much shoulder and arm. As you improve, work on extending your arm out away from your body. Advanced throwers will note that the arm and wrist action is much like a bullwhip cracking sideways; the addition of whip-like motion in your upper arm, shoulder, and even upper body (by rotating the hips) can impart more power onto your throw, but is difficult to control.
Variations
The forehand is an extraordinarily versatile throw, and can be adapted to many different situations.
- Most upside-down throws (see below) use the forehand grip and throw, and are therefore variants of the forehand to some degree.
- The Push Pass: A little-used variant of the forehand, it is thrown with a grip similar to a backhand (index finger on the outer rim of the disc, thumb on top, fingers curled underneath) but is released on the forehand side. The wrist "pushes" the disc forward while spin is imparted "backwards" by rolling the disc off the index finger. A final flick of the index finger finishes the release. Frequently, very little spin is actually imparted, which makes this throw tend to flutter and fall more often than not.
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- The High Release: Used to get around an object (or a person), the High Release is thrown above the thrower's shoulder, and is completely powered by the flick of the wrist. In order to be thrown flat so that it will travel without curving, the index finger is pulled in to the edge of the disc with the middle finger and the outer edge of the disc is rotated down, so that the disc lies at a slight angle to the line of the knuckles.
Beach Throw or Thumber
The Beach Throw (also known as a Thumber, not to be confused with the upside down throw) is unpopular in ultimate Frisbee circles due to its predictable flight path and proximity of release to the thrower's body. Its primary advantage is that it can be a very hard, very accurate throw, and therefore useful for those uncomfortable with the staple throws of the game, the forehand and backhand. It can be used by inexperienced players to attempt The Greatest, but experienced players will prefer a Waffle.
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- Grip: The thumber derives its name from the grip: it is thrown on the forehand side with the thumb under the rim and the rest of the hand against the outside of the disc. The arm should also be tucked against the side, and the elbow bent. Keeping the disc parallel to the ground, (any tilt and it will fall) cock your wrist back so your thumb is pointing as far back as you can.
- Throw: To release, simply flick your wrist forward. Spin is imparted off the flat part of the thumb; power can be gained by rotating the body at the hips. A flat release is critical to a successful thumber. After release, the flat part of the thumb should point towards the target.
Waffle
The Waffle varies in popularity among ultimate players, because it has a tendancy to wobble in flight, is harder to learn than the other right-side up throws, and not as well known. It is almost always an inside-out throw, which also hampers it's acceptance. The waffle is most useful when the frisbee is caught above the head and must be thrown quickly, similar to the hammer, but with a different set of drawbacks. This throw is often used in attempts at The Greatest
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- Grip: The fingers of the hand are spread out over the top, with the thumb under the disc and perpendicular to the rim.
- Throw: Hold your arm horizontal and behind you, then quickly bring it forward, snapping the wrist laterally as you release. The whole arm can be allowed to move, and the forearm must move very quickly to impart enough momentum to send the disk a significant distance. Wrist snap is especially important, as the throw has no stability without a strong spin.
The waffle is a situationally dependent throw. It is inefficient and challenging to learn, but can be extremely useful in the right situation.
Upside-down
A Frisbee thrown upside-down has a very different flight path than one thrown right-side up. Lift is applied towards the rounded side of the disc; if the disc is completely upside-down, the lift is now propelling the disc straight into the ground. Thus, these throws typically have a stronger arc to them, tend to bank or roll as they fly, and are much harder to catch. Where a right-side up throw tends to spend a considerable portion of its flight path at a catchable height, an upside-down throw tends to land abruptly at a certain point.
To facilitate discussion, the following convention is hereafter used: a disc that is level and flying right-side up is considered to be flying at 0 degrees relative to the ground (DRtG). A disc that is level and flying upside-down is considered to be flying at 180 DRtG. A disc that is flying exactly vertically would be at 90 DRtG, etc.
Hammer
The Hammer is one of the more difficult throws to master, despite being gripped just like a normal forehand throw, and the throwing motion being relatively natural. Hammers are difficult to aim well due to their high, arcing flight path, and their tendency to catch any amount of wind.
- Grip: Identical to the forehand, when throwing a hammer one grips the disc under the thumb, with the index finger extended against the underside of the disc for stability and the middle finger pressed against the inside rim to impart spin.
- Throw: Swing the throwing arm over the head, turning the disc upside-down (somewhere between 90 and 180 DRtG) and throwing it up at an angle. The wrist flicks to impart spin off the middle finger, just like when throwing a forehand.
A hammer, when thrown properly (and in no wind) by a right-handed thrower, will arc up and to the left as it moves away from the thrower. As it flies, the disc will roll over until it is completely upside-down (180 DRtG), falling down and to the right again. Ideally, it should reach its target at between 135 and 180 DRtG to make catching it as easy as possible.
However, hammers are notoriously difficult to throw "properly". Common failure modes include:
- the Blade, in which the disc does not turn over at all, but instead keeps its original orientation towards the ground. Blades tend to fall very sharply and quickly and are difficult (and often painful) to catch.
- the Double Helix, when the disc over-rotates past 180 DRtG. These throws tend to float as they fall, drifting right and then left again (for a right-handed thrower) before landing flat.
A Blade can be corrected by increasing the angle of release (closer to 180 DRtG); a Double Helix can be corrected by decreasing it. Experimenting with the angle of release should produce a happy medium which works for the individual thrower. Angle of release will also affect the horizontal travel of a hammer, which is difficult to judge even in the lightest breeze. The near-vertical release of the hammer makes them highly susceptible to crosswinds, blowing them well off target. Hammers rely on spin for stability even more than most throws; a hammer thrown with insufficient spin will flop about as it flies, making the receiver's job even more difficult.
A hammer, like most throws, can be released with any amount of angle and pitch and at any strength. A hammer released at nearly-180 DRtG and straight ahead (i.e. with a pitch close to 0) will stay mostly flat and fly directly at a receiver. This throw is difficult to block (in Ultimate) but tends to arrive very fast and at an unpredictable angle, since it often flies like a Double Helix. (See also the Scoober, below.) A Blade can also be thrown intentionally; this is commonly called a Roller in disc golf, as they tend to hit the ground and roll for long distances if thrown very near 90 DRtG.
Scoober
Another upside-down variant of the forehand, The scoober (sometimes also called a Hiawatha) looks like a hammer thrown flat to the backhand side. It has an unpredictable flight path due to the almost inevitable double helix that results from the release, is difficult to catch, and is frequently mocked by ultimate players.
- Grip: Identical to a forehand or hammer.
- Throw: Stepping towards the backhand side, hold the disc upside down and bring the throwing arm across the body. Leading with the elbow, swing the throwing arm forward and flick the disc off the middle finger (as in a forehand), releasing the disc somewhere between 160 and 180 DRtG. The steeper the angle of release, the more similar the path of the scoober will be to that of a hammer, and thus may the double helix pattern be avoided.
Other throws are also known as a scoober; these seem to vary by geography.
Thumber
The Thumber (not to be confused with the beach thumber) is an advanced throw that is rarely used in competitive play. The accuracy of the Hammer or standard forehand limits it's usefulness. However, it is occasionally used for when the disc needs to drop quickly and have an opposite helix of the Hammer.
- Grip: The thumber derives its name from the grip: it is thrown on the forehand side with the thumb under the rim and the rest of the hand against the outside of the disc. The arm should also be tucked against the side, and the elbow bent. It is released at an angle to get the helix .
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- Throw: This throw has a flight path that is a mirror of that of a hammer (arcing high to the right for a right-handed thrower). This can be achieved by holding the disc up at about 135 degrees instead of horizontally.