Heinrich Harrer
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Heinrich Harrer (born July 6 1912) is an Austrian mountaineer.
He competed at the Berlin Olympics in 1936.
Harrer made the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, Switzerland with Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vorg in July 1938 and became a member of the SS. Austria had become part of Germany in March of that year, and with the start of World War II, Harrer was interned in 1939 by British colonial authorities during an expedition for climbing the Nanga Parbat in India. He escaped in 1944 with Peter Aufschnaiter into Tibet, where he spent seven years and became a friend of the young Dalai Lama.
He documented his experiences there in Seven Years in Tibet, The White Spider, Lost Lhasa. The 1997 film bearing the first of those titles is based on his writing.
In 1962 he was the leader of the team of four climbers who made the first ascent of the Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jayadikesuma) in western New Guinea, the highest peak in Oceania.
According to http://www.harrerportfolio.com/HarrerBio.html "Harrer has received numerous honors, including the Gold Humboldt Medal and the Explorers Club Medal for his many expeditions and explorations. He has written over 20 books and received credit on over 40 film productions. His body of work spans five decades of exploration over six continents. In addition, Heinrich Harrer has become widely known as an outspoken advocate of human rights". Also of note, "Heinrich Harrer and the exiled Dalai Lama remain steadfast friends".
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