Swona

The island of Swona (Norse for “Swain's Island”) is the northern of the two islands situated in the Pentland Firth between the Orkney Islands and Caithness on the Scottish mainland. It is administered as part of the Orkney Islands while its neighbour, Stroma, to the south, is administered as part of Caithness. In 2005 Swona is owned by an Orkney farmer, but is not worked, as it is a conservation area with a number of rare plants. The island is about one and a quarter miles long by about half a mile wide, with a maximum height of approximately 127 feet.

The island was populated for many years until 1974 when the last family left. Many of the houses, while in a state of dilapidation, are as they were left, with various possessions still to be seen where they were abandoned.

When the population departed they left a herd of fourteen dairy cattle (crosses of Shorthorn and Aberdeen Angus. In 2004, some five generations later, the herd was still going strong, and is now classified as a new breed. It then consisted of ten bulls, four cows, and two calves. This appears to be around the maximum number that the island can support. Two calves are born each year in the Spring, although not all live to maturity. The herd gets no additional feed, although it is checked by a vet each year. The animals are self-selecting for hardiness, easy calving, and low-maintenance feeding off the grass and seaweed. Having been separated from the mainland for so long, they are completely disease-free, and have reverted to wild behaviour. Because of this, DNA samples have been taken, from the cowpats. The main herd is usually in the centre of the island in the Summer.

Boats were built on the island for a number of years, the last of which, the Hood, can be seen pulled well up the shingle beach by the landing stage. It is of course no longer seaworthy, having a hole in it caused by the cows using it as a rubbing post. The landing stage and boat can be seen briefly in passing through a gap in the rocks near the north end of the island on the east side. The last house to be occupied can also be seen in this area.

Being situated in the tidal stream in the Pentland Firth, a tidal race is present at both the north and south ends of the island, being minimal briefly at the turn of the tide. Between the races is a calm eddy which extends down-tide as the tide strengthens. The races are highly visible, with over-falls and whirlpools. Large swell waves can also be present, especially in bad weather conditions. When entering or leaving the eddies crossing the races, even large powerful vessels can be pushed off course, such is the demarcation between the relatively calm eddy and the fast-moving tide in the races.

Because it is uninhabited, there is no regular access to the island; however, the ferry from Gills Bay, near John O’Groats, to St Margaret’s Hope usually passes close to the island. Which side of the island it passes on is dependant on the tidal direction at the time.

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